The city’s
name, also spelled Be’er Sheva or Beersheba,
means Well of the Oath because it was here that Abraham swore an allegiance of
peace with Abimelech, the local king in those days. Abraham’s descendents, Jews
and Muslims both, populate the modern city and its surroundings. Added to that
mix are newer arrivals of Sudanese, Ethiopian and Russian heritage bringing the
number of residents to about 195,000.
Entrance
to biblical water system unearthed in Tel Sheva. Photo courtesy of Israel
Tourism Ministry
http://www.flickr.com/photos/75061343@N02/8246684624/in/photostream
In fact, one
of the most striking aspects of 21st century Beersheva is the confluence of varying
ethnicities of Jews and (mostly Bedouin) Arabs in the corridors of its
institutions and public spaces, from the renowned Soroka Medical Center to the
academically respected Ben-Gurion University of the Negev (BGU); from the
traditional marketplaces to the spanking new shopping malls and hiking trails –
most notably, the Round Be’er Sheva Trail that won third prize from the
European Ramblers Association in its 2012 ECO-Award competition.
Ben-Gurion
University of the Negev. Photo courtesy of Israel Tourism Ministry
http://www.flickr.com/photos/75061343@N02/8245617045/in/photostream
In the past
year, the municipality has been working towards upgrading the tourism
infrastructure and branding Beersheva as Israel’s “Water City,” with the
installation of public fountains and even a manmade beach on the drawing board.
On top of all
that, a thriving nightlife is growing amidst this cultural hodge-podge. In
Beersheva you’ll find The Forum, the biggest nightclub in Israel, taking
its place among upscale restaurants, coffee shops and pubs.
Ringelblum
Street, just outside the BGU campus, has become a national example of how
students can affect social justice and environmental responsibility in the
workplace. Restaurants and businesses on this trendy strip can earn a free
“Community Covenant” (Tav Chevrati in Hebrew) seal of approval in return
for their pledge to respect employees’ legal rights, practice environmental
responsibility and provide accessibility to people with disabilities. Regularly
scheduled street festivals add to the youthful fun on Ringelblum.
Entering
Beersheva through its art
British
native Hannah Rendell last year founded the Be’er Sheva Art Experience (B7),
aimed at getting more tourists into Beersheva and especially into its Old City area,
which has seen a recent infusion of $10.5 million in renovations. “Like any
developing city, we need tourists to come and show interest to get things
moving,” she says.
Rendell has been
living in the city with her husband and two children for four years, and feels
frustrated that Beersheva is not on most foreign visitors’ radar, despite a new
tourist and information center opened in 2009.
“Currently, Beersheva
doesn’t have much tourism,” she says. “It’s seen mainly as a stopover to Eilat.
Because there isn’t a lot available in English about Beersheva, travelers have a
misconception that there isn’t enough to do here, but there is.”
B7 is working
with the municipality to entice tourists to the Negev Museum of Art and private
art galleries, by offering one- and two-day workshops and tours for groups
coming to Israel, and by encouraging the municipality to post English-language
signage at tourist sites.
“We link it
with the art experience because we believe art is the best way to show people
the city and to help the city grow and develop,” says Rendell, a sculptor. In
the past year, B7 has brought about 1,000 people to Beersheva.
The Negev
Museum of Art is situated in what used to be the home of the Ottoman governor.
It was built in 1906 next door to a mosque that now serves as an exhibition
space. During the British mandate, the structure was taken over by a girls'
school and then became the city hall after 1948. An extensive renovation in
2004 brought the preserved historic building up to modern standards. The museum
today contains two galleries, a grand entrance yard, and a performance area for
live concerts during the summer. Guided tours are available every Wednesday at
5 pm and Saturday at 11 am.
B7’s most popular
workshop is the Photography Trail, where a professional photographer takes
groups around the Old City and gives pointers on taking the best shots. But Rendell
has many other suggestions as well.
“For a day of
activities, I’d recommend to start by walking around the Old City
and looking at its buildings. Beersheva is the only city that the Ottomans
built, and many of the original buildings are still intact. The Old Mosque right
now has an exhibition about Australians who helped liberate Beersheva during
World War I. There is a memorial for soldiers -- the Beersheva Negev
Brigade Monument
-- that is really beautiful. And there is the old Turkish train station, built
in 1915.”
Beersheva
Negev Brigade Monument. Photo courtesy of Israel Tourism Ministry
http://www.flickr.com/photos/75061343@N02/8245616807/in/photostream
There is more
for English-speakers, too.
Annual
musicals are staged in English by the Light
Opera Group of the Negev, established in 1980. Its 2013 production is
“Beauty and the Beast,” scheduled to run in February and March. There are also
regular classical music concerts offered by the Israel Sinfonietta of Beersheva, which is
sponsoring its first Beethoven marathon in December.
Ring
around Beersheva
As part of
its Blueprint Negev project, Keren Kayemeth LeIsrael-Jewish National Fund
(KKL-JNF) is completing the final stages of the Beersheba
River Walk.
This 900-acre
site, when finished, will include hiking and biking trails, a botanical garden
based on desert flora, a sports arena and amphitheater, a boating lake filled
with purified wastewater, promenades and eateries. For many years, wastewater
flowed in the channel of the Beersheva
River, and its banks were
used as a garbage dump. This KKL-JNF restoration project has transformed the
area into a green oasis on both sides of the riverbank.
Another place to view wildlife is at the Zoological
Garden of Beersheva (otherwise known as the Negev Zoo), established in 1954 as a small
petting zoo and now expanded to include a large collection of mammals,
birds and reptiles.
The newly
opened Round Be’er Sheva Trail (RBST), which will be expanded in coming months
and years and will eventually meet up with the Israel
National Trail, is Israel’s only city-encompassing path.
Planned out
and marked in 2008 by the Israel Trail Committee and dedicated by Beersheva
Mayor Ruvik Danilovich in 2012, the RBST’s unusual urban-environmental model is
what earned it the ECO-Award.
Built
cooperatively by the municipality, the Israel Nature and Parks Service, the
Jewish National Fund, the Antiquities Authority and the Society for the
Protection of Nature in Israel, the RSBT brings walkers and cyclists past the
Negev Brigade Monument, the Zoological Garden, the Beersheva River and the Beit
Eshel historical site, as well as the UNESCO
World Heritage Site Tel Beer Sheva National Park.
Delving
into prehistory and modern ecology
Three miles
east of present-day Beersheva, Tel Beer Sheva is the area archeologists
identify with the biblical city.
The site
includes ruins going back to the fourth millennium BCE. Evidence was uncovered
of a walled city from the Israelite monarchic period in the Iron Age, and
traces of settlement from the Roman era during which the borders began
spreading to the area of today’s city. It was an important fortress as it lay along
the well-traveled route from Egypt
to the Dead Sea. Tel Beer Sheva also has early
churches and once served as the bishop’s residence.
Tel Beer Sheva’s
first Israelite inhabitants engineered a meticulous waterworks whose
centerpiece is a huge tiled shaft dug 50 feet underground into a large
reservoir fed by Hebron
River floodwaters. Also
discovered here was a 230-foot well, the deepest water well ever found in Israel.
Also just outside Beersheva in the industrial Ramat Hovav
area, the Ramat
Hovav Visitor Center gives tourists age 17 and up access to a pollution-monitoring
station, where guides explain how the pollution level from the factories’
chimneys is checked, and also describe methods used for purifying and treating
wastewater.
Along the
same lines of ecology, but with a different focus, Beersheva will soon hold the
distinction of housing Israel’s
largest – and “greenest” -- shopping mall. Now under construction, the 115,000-square-meter
facility will feature pools for collecting rainwater and lighting generated by
solar panels on the roof.
Also on the
drawing board are an enclosed Farmers Market and a new central bus station that
will double as a shopping center.
For an
old-time shopping experience, nothing beats the Bedouin market. It’s been open
every Thursday since 1905, drawing Bedouin vendors and merchants from the
neighboring villages selling copper products, glassware, jewelry, woven crafts
and rugs, clothing, footwear, and food.
Beersheva
Bedouin Market. Photo courtesy of Israel Tourism Ministry
http://www.flickr.com/photos/75061343@N02/8246685398/in/photostream
At the Center
for Ethiopian Craftsmanship, new immigrant women practice the ancient earthenware,
embroidering, sculpting and straw handicrafts of their home villages.
B7’s Rendell
says Beersheva is a wonderful off-the-beaten-path destination with more and
more businesses, parks, archeological and tourist sites opening all the time.
“It’s really
important to come here to see the real Israel, where you have so many different
kinds of people living life together everyday. I also like showing people
outside Israel
that there is affordable housing here with a high standard of living, and some
cosmopolitan lifestyle. We don’t have a beach yet,” she adds with a smile, “but
the mayor is working on it.”