The Diverse Israeli Table-Part 5- A Culinary Potpourri
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The Diverse Israeli Table-Part 5- A Culinary Potpourri

  • 9/20/2000
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     THE DIVERSE ISRAELI TABLE
     VOL 1: | MIDDLE EAST | MAGHREB | MEDITERRANEAN | EASTERN EUROPE |
     VOL 2: | CULINARY POTPOURRI | HOLIDAYS | WINE | BREAD
     
         
    Part 5: A Culinary Potpourri
     
       

    As becomes rapidly evident to anyone living in or visiting Israel, it is virtually impossible to specify two, five or even a dozen different culinary styles as having a dominant role in making up the complex Israeli table. Although the four most recognizable culinary influences are from the Mediterranean Basin, Central and Eastern Europe, the Middle East and North Africa, it would be an out-and-out culinary sin to ignore the influences of other groups. The following is thus devoted to the dishes of the Bedouin, as well as to those Israelis whose roots are in Ethiopia, Georgia and Yemen.


    Feasting With the Bedouin

     
     
    Bedouin woman preparing pita, Judean desert
    		 

    No group of Israelis is more fiercely proud of their history and cultural heritage than the Bedouin, who had a profound influence on the culture of the people they encountered, and in no area was that influence felt more than in the kitchen.

    The basic dining habits of the Bedouin, most of whom now live in the Negev and in the northern region of the country, have remained unchanged over time. They eat simple foods that reflect their pastoral roots. Based on uncomplicated but careful preparations, the everyday diet of those Bedouin who continue to maintain a primarily nomadic way of life relies heavily on bread and dates, lamb, mutton, goat and occasionally camel meat, and the milk of these animals, along with game and wild berries found in the desert. Despite this seeming simplicity, Bedouin cooking is often delicate, aromatic and rich with natural flavors.

    The rules of courtesy and hospitality that surround traditional Bedouin dining are also rich. To dine in a Bedouin home is to accept not only the hospitality, but the protection of one's host. So formalized are the rules of hospitality that it is known that for three days after a meal, even if a guest has traveled many miles in that time, he remains under the protection of the family with which he dined. Although Bedouin rules of dining etiquette vary considerably from those of most Western homes, they are no less refined and delicate. At traditional meals, nearly all food is eaten with the fingers, a custom far more sophisticated and difficult to master than most Westerners realize. With the exception of couscous and other grain dishes, one should use only three fingers in eating - and only the right hand.

    At many such meals, the very first offering is a bowl of fresh herbs - parsley, mint, chives, dill, coriander, tarragon and spring onions - with which to clean the palate and hone the appetite. The following recipes, for two of the many dishes served during the meal, are designed to serve 4 - 6.


     
     

     

    Flock of sheep, Lower Galilee
    		 

    Lamb on Vine Leaves

    8 vine leaves
    2 Tbsp. olive oil
    1/2 kg. lamb, cut into bite-sized pieces
    2 medium onions, chopped coarsely
    1/2 tsp. allspice
    salt and pepper to taste
    1/4 cup pine nuts
    juice of 1 lemon

     

    If using fresh vine leaves, soak them in hot water for 5 - 6 minutes. If using canned leaves, soak for 5 - 6 hours in cold water. In either case, after soaking rinse and gently squeeze dry between toweling.

    Heat the oil in a heavy skillet and saute the meat and onions together until the meat is browned on all sides. Season with the allspice and salt and pepper to taste.

    Place 4 of the leaves in a greased shallow casserole dish and spread the meat mixture on the leaves. Sprinkle over with the pine nuts, cover with the remaining leaves, sprinkle with the lemon juice and bake in a medium oven for 5 minutes. Place the casserole dish in a large oven pan with about 2 cm. of hot water and bake for an additional 30 minutes. Serve hot.


    Mutton Ragout

    1/4 kg. whole chickpeas
    1 leg of mutton (about 2 kgs.)
    1/4 kg. fatty pastrami*
    1/4 cup chicken fat
    1 large onion, chopped
    4 medium tomatoes, skinned, seeded and chopped
    2 cloves garlic, chopped
    1/2 tsp. each thyme and basil
    2 bay leaves
    salt and pepper to taste
    1 cup white grape juice
    1 cup breadcrumbs

     

    Soak the chickpeas overnight in a large amount of lightly salted water. Drain the chickpeas well, and cook in lightly salted water until they are nearly soft.

    Cut the mutton off the bone and then into cubes. Cut the pastrami into cubes as well.

    In a large heavy saucepan, melt the chicken fat and saute the onions until they are translucent. Add the mutton and pastrami cubes and brown well on both sides. Add the tomatoes, garlic, thyme, basil, bay leaves and salt and pepper to taste. Pour over the grape juice, rapidly bring to the boil and immediately lower the heat, cover the skillet and simmer very gently until the meat is tender (about 2 hours).

    When the mutton is nearly ready, transfer the mixture to an ovenproof casserole, add the chickpeas, correct the seasoning and sprinkle the breadcrumbs on top. Place in a slow oven until a slight crust has formed on the top (about 1 hour). Serve hot.

    * I have substituted fatty pastrami for the more traditional fatty parts of sheep intestine.


    Dragons, Hot Sauce and Chicken Wings: The Foods of Ethiopia

     
     
    Ethiopian women in Jerusalem
    		 

    It is said that within the mountain ranges of Ethiopia one may come across fire-breathing dragons. The dragons in question are actually relatively small lizards, and if they do breathe fire it is probably due to berbere, the most characteristic ingredient in Ethiopian cookery.

    This palate-searing reddish paste, found in most Ethiopian kitchens and used in preparing many local specialties, consists of hot red chili peppers, garlic, ginger, fenugreek, cardamom, cloves, allspice, nutmeg, white pepper, salt and turmeric. There are various traditions that besides adding magnificent flavor to many traditional dishes, this especially potent mixture will also add to one's longevity and cure rheumatism, among other claims.

    Of all the cuisines of East Africa, the most highly developed and the one least exotic to the Western palate is that of Ethiopia. It is a style of cookery that has combined the best principles of the Arab kitchen with the use of classic African ingredients, such as peanuts, bananas, rice, coconuts, spinach, corn and beans.

    Ethiopian Jews, while adhering strictly to the laws of kashrut, also made a major contribution to this national cuisine. Some five hundred years ago, Jewish merchant families of Addis Ababa introduced the use of curry powder and other aspects of Indian cookery; while this might be thought of as mere sophistication, it produced a culinary style that is not difficult to admire.

    The impact of the Ethiopian kitchen has started to make itself felt in Israel. In Tel Aviv, Haifa and Be'er Sheva, for example, immigrants have opened restaurants, mostly in the area of the central bus station. Featuring traditional food in settings that are comfortable but simple, it is possible to dine at these places in goodly fashion for prices that are remarkably reasonable.

    The following traditional recipes, which will sit comfortably on any Western table, represent a festive meal that might be found in an upper-middle class Jewish home in Addis Ababa as well as throughout Israel. Each of the following recipes is designed to serve 6.


    Spiced Chicken Wings

    2 1/2 kgs. chicken wings, well cleaned and with tips trimmed
    6 medium onions, chopped
    1 1/2 cups soy sauce
    1 cup sugar
    1 tsp. each cinnamon, ground cloves, white pepper
    3 - 4 thin slices of fresh ginger, chopped or 1 tsp ground ginger

     

    Put the chicken wings in a large pot with lightly salted water. When the water boils, add the onions and let boil for 15 minutes.

    In a separate saucepan, heat the soy sauce and seasonings, but do not allow to boil.

    Drain the chicken wings and transfer to the saucepan with the soy sauce mixture. Cook over a low heat for 15 minutes.

    Remove the chicken from the soy mixture and let the sauce drain. Place the wings in a baking dish and bake in a medium oven until the wings are browned and crisp (about 1/2 hour). Serve hot.


    Lamb Soup

    675 gr. stewing lamb, cut into 2" (5 cm.) cubes
    2 zucchini
    2 medium tomatoes
    3 Tbsp. olive oil
    6 spring onions, chopped coarsely
    2 - 3 cloves garlic, chopped
    1/2 tsp. each black pepper, salt and turmeric
    1/4 tsp. caraway seed
    pinch saffron

     

    Place all the ingredients in a heavy kettle and stir together gently. Pour over 6 cups of boiling water or stock and cook, covered, over a low flame until the meat is tender (about 2 hours). Skim occasionally during the cooking process. After the meat is tender, remove and discard the tomatoes. Serve hot, dividing the meat and vegetables equally.


    Green Beans and Peanuts

    3 Tbsp. olive oil (or more if the skillet dries out)
    1 large onion, chopped
    3/4 cup unsalted, skinned peanuts
    3-4 cloves garlic, chopped
    675 gr. (1 1/2 lb.) green beans
    1 large green pepper, chopped
    salt and pepper to taste

     

    Heat the oil in a skillet and saute the onions, nuts and garlic until the onions are translucent. To this mixture add the green beans, green pepper, salt and black pepper. Continue to saute until the beans are tender. Serve hot.


    Georgian Style

     
     
    Georgian immigrant in Ashdod
    		 

    Even though it is located in the Caucasus region of the former Soviet Union, Georgia has a style of cookery that has a closer kinship to that of the Middle East than to that of Russia.

    Festive dinners start with a large variety of zakuski (hors d'oeuvres). Often set outdoors on a single table, hosts are valued by the length of the zakuski table they set. Cheeses, vegetables, pickled garlic cloves, and sprigs of coriander and tarragon sit alongside platters of smoked sturgeon, caviar, sliced hard sausages, pickled mushrooms and plums. And, because Georgians take enormous pride in the wines they produce at home, as many as twelve different kinds of wine may adorn the table. Vodka, drunk neat, ice cold and in a single gulp from tiny glasses is always available and wealthier families serve the local version of champagne.

    One of the things that gives Georgian cookery its unique flavor is the liberal use of fruits and nuts together with meat and poultry - walnut and plum sauces being favorites. The region also boasts an enormous variety of heavy but delicious breads that vary in taste and texture from village to village.

    (Several of the recipes below are from the family of David Dhugeshvilli, and others were adapted from the recipes of Marian Burros.)


    Chicken in Walnut Sauce

    1 chicken (about 1 1/2-2 kgs.)
    1 small onion
    1 sprig each tarragon and parsley
    olive oil as required
    400 gr. walnuts, shelled and finely ground
    6 Tbsp. white vinegar
    1 medium onion, chopped finely
    2 cloves garlic, chopped finely
    1/4 cup coriander, chopped
    hot paprika or several dashes of Tabasco, to taste
    2 cups chicken stock
    1/4 tsp. fenugreek
    1/4 tsp. each turmeric and coriander

     

    Wash the chicken under cold running water and then dry well. Place the whole onion, tarragon and parsley in the cavity of the bird, and then brush the skin with olive oil.

    Place the chicken in a roasting pan and put in an oven that has been preheated to very hot. Immediately reduce the oven temperature to medium and roast the bird until it is tender (40 - 45 minutes).

    Heat about 1 Tbsp. of olive oil in a skillet and saute the chopped onion until it is translucent. Remove from the heat and add the remaining ingredients, mixing well. Serve this spice mixture in a sauceboat. Serves 4.


     
     

     

    		  

    Turkey with Apricot Stuffing

    Note: If the fish suggested in this recipe are not available, substitute trout fillets and/or bass fillets.

    1/4 kg. dried apricots, pitted
    1 cup port wine
    2 cups burghul (cracked wheat)
    1/4 kg. dried prunes, pitted and halved
    1/4 cup parve margarine
    2 large onions, chopped coarsely
    2 stalks celery, without leaves, chopped finely
    1 tsp. sage
    salt and pepper to taste
    1/2 cup pine nuts
    1 cup beef stock
    1 turkey (about 4 1/2 kgs.) dressed

     

    In a mixing bowl, soak the apricots in the port overnight. Remove the apricots with a slotted spoon and set aside. Reserve the wine.

    In a separate bowl, soak the cracked wheat in 4 cups of water for 2 hours and then drain well.

    Melt the margarine in a large heavy skillet and saute the onion and celery until the onions are translucent. Add the cracked wheat and saute for 5 minutes longer. Season with the sage and salt and pepper to taste, add the prunes, apricots, pine nuts and stock and simmer, uncovered, for 20 minutes. With this mixture, stuff the bird.

    Truss the bird well and place on a rack in an oven that has been preheated to very hot. Immediately reduce the oven temperature to medium and bake, allowing about 55 minutes per kg., basting often with the wine and pan drippings. When the bird is done, let it cool for 10 minutes (or slightly longer) before carving. If desired, make a gravy from the drippings and serve in a sauceboat. (Serves 6 - 8).


    Red Beans with Plum Sauce

    1/2 kg. canned or 4 cups cooked kidney beans
    1 clove garlic
    1/2 tsp. crushed, dried chili peppers
    1 tsp. dried basil
    1 tsp. minced coriander leaves
    salt to taste
    1/2 cup damson plum jam
    about 2 Tbsp. wine vinegar

     

    If using canned beans, strain the beans and rinse lightly under cold running water.

    Drain the beans thoroughly and turn into a serving bowl. With a mortar and pestle or blender, crush the garlic together with the chili peppers, basil, coriander and a pinch or two of salt. Work to a smooth paste.

    Rub the jam through a fine sieve and mix together with the herb paste, thinning with vinegar, a few drops at a time. Season the sauce to taste with salt and gently fold it into the beans with a wooden spoon. Let stand at room temperature for 2 - 3 hours before serving. Serves 6.


    In The Yemenite Style

     
     
    Immigrants from Yemen in a transit camp

     

     

     

     

     

     

    Dancing with a basket of flowers at a Yemenite Henna ceremony
    		 

    More than three thousand years ago, in order to safeguard the rich spice caravans that were making their way through the Land of Sheba, King Solomon sent soldiers from Jerusalem to the southern tip of the Arabian Peninsula. Knowing that they would probably never return to the Promised Land, the soldiers set off with their wives and children. Once there, in the land today known as Yemen, the families settled in for a prolonged stay, and for nearly three thousand years the Jews of Yemen were cut off, not only from their Jewish brothers and sisters, but for all practical purposes, from the rest of the world as well.

    Despite the its isolation, the community guarded its religious and cultural traditions zealously. There was occasional contact with the Holy Land, but this was so limited that until the 17th century, scribes continued to copy the holy books by hand. The printing press was introduced into Yemen only in the 18th century.

    In 1950 a huge airlift, now known as "Operation Magic Carpet" brought tens of thousands of Yemeni Jews to Israel. Unfortunately, not all who wanted to come to Israel were allowed to leave Yemen, and until recently several thousand families remained there. Then some years ago, in a very secret operation of military precision called "Operation Magic Carpet 2", nearly all of the remaining Jews of Yemen were brought to Israel.

    When the Jews of Yemen arrived in Israel, they brought with them an ancient and sophisticated culinary tradition. And much of what they brought has become part of the everyday fare that can now be found throughout Israel. On an overall basis, many Europeans have ignored Yemeni cuisine, claiming that it is "too exotic" for the Western palate. It is true that traditional fare from Yemen includes such dishes as roasted locusts, but the truth is that these are no more "exotic" than the passion the French have for snails or the Italians have for sea urchins.

    The most representative dishes of the Jewish-Yemeni kitchen are delicious but not at all exotic, and rely heavily on lamb, mutton and beef. Honey is used frequently in recipes as are tomatoes, cucumbers and mushrooms. Several especially tasty homemade breads are also important to this cookery. And, because this is the cuisine of a people that were not ordinarily wealthy, nearly all of the foods used are easily and inexpensively available. What makes the cuisine unique is the subtle use of herbs and spices along with a few unique but easily mastered cooking methods.

    The dinner that follows is based on recipes of Yemeni families residing in Jerusalem and Tel Aviv. The meal is designed to serve 4 - 6.


    Mutton Meatballs

    1/2 kg. boneless mutton or lamb, minced
    1 medium onion, chopped finely
    1 slice white bread, without crusts
    1 egg
    1 tsp. parsley, chopped
    1/2 tsp. each salt and black pepper
    1-2 cloves garlic, chopped
    1/2 tsp. zhug (see note at the end of this recipe)
    1/2 tsp. sweet paprika
    flour as required

    Mix the meat, onion, bread, egg, parsley, salt, pepper, garlic, zhug, and paprika. Knead well by hand and form into balls about 1" (2 1/2 cm.) in diameter. Sprinkle with the flour.

    Heat a small amount of oil in a heavy skillet and brown the meatballs. Reduce the heat, add enough oil to just cover the meatballs and cook, covered, until the meatballs are done (about 20 minutes). May be served hot or cold either as a first course or with the soup which follows.

     
     
     
    		  

    Note: Zhug, the most popular spice mixture of Yemen, can be purchased at delicatessen stores specializing in ethnic cuisine. If you cannot find it, you can make it at home by pureeing 1 cup of fresh chili peppers and then adding 1/2 cup each of parsley and coriander leaves, blending again and then adding 1 Tbsp. minced garlic, 1 tsp. each of salt, pepper and ground cumin and a pinch of ground cardamom. Keep in mind that this flavorful blend is fiery hot and should be used only in very small quantities.


    Seasoned Soup with Bread

    1 Tbsp. fenugreek seeds
    1/2 tsp. tomato puree
    3 cups chicken or beef stock
    2 loaves saluf bread (see following recipe) or pita
    juice of 2 lemons

     

    Soak the fenugreek seeds in water for 3 hours. Drain the seeds well and grind them finely. Add the tomato puree and 1 Tbsp. of water and blend together well. Place the mixture over a low flame and bring to a boil, stirring constantly. Remove immediately from the heat and set aside.

    Heat the stock and add the fenugreek mixture. Over a medium flame, bring just to a boil, stirring constantly. If the soup becomes overly thick, add more stock. As soon as a boil is attained, remove from the heat. To serve, divide the breads into equal portions and place one portion in each soup bowl. Pour the hot soup over the bread, add the lemon juice and serve at once.


     
     

     

    A Druze woman baking pita, Golan Heights
    		 

    Oven Baked Flat Bread - Saluf

    This is not an easy bread to make, as the flipping of the flattened loaf onto the sides of a hot oven is an art form that needs to be mastered. The practice will be well worth the effort. Should one's initial efforts fail, any flat bread (such as pita) may be substituted.

    3 Tbsp. fenugreek seeds, crushed
    1 1/2 tsp. tomato puree
    1/2 kilo flour
    1 Tbsp. active dry yeast

     

    Combine the fenugreek seeds with the tomato puree and 3 Tbsp. of water and mix together well. Cook over a low flame and bring to a boil, stirring constantly. Remove from the heat.

    Sift together the flour and yeast and then knead the mixture together with just enough lukewarm water to make a moderately thick dough. Cover lightly and let stand to rise for half an hour. Repeat the kneading and rising process 6 times in all, kneading at half hour intervals.

    Heat the oven to its highest possible temperature. Turn off the heat and, taking care not to burn yourself, wipe the walls of the oven with a wet cloth. Immediately after the last kneading flatten the dough and make two thin loaves. Over each spread 3 Tbsp. of the fenugreek mixture and, with a rapid motion, stick the breads on the walls of the oven. Let cook just until the bread peels off the walls and falls to the floor of the oven.

    Note: Keep in mind that many Yemenis will make two portions of bread for each diner, one to be served in the soup and the other on a separate plate to be dipped into samneh. To prepare samneh, simply melt 1 cup of butter together with 1 Tbsp. of whole fenugreek seeds. When the butter has completely melted, skim the surface and carefully pour the butter into a small sauce dish, leaving behind the solids that have settled to the bottom of the skillet.


    Steak with Hot Sauce

    3 medium tomatoes, peeled and chopped
    1 Tbsp. zhug (more or less to taste)
    1 1/2 cups mushrooms, chopped
    4 or 6 entrecote steaks (can also use any other cut of steak or lamb chops)
    3/4 cup beef stock
    3 Tbsp. almonds, chopped

     

    Place the tomatoes, zhug, chopped mushrooms and almonds in a small bowl and mix well. Spread this mixture on the steaks, divided evenly. Roll up the steaks and fasten with wooden toothpicks.

    Transfer the steaks to a lightly greased baking dish and pour over the beef stock. Place in an oven that has been preheated to 330o Fahrenheit (170o Celsius) until done (about 1 hour), basting occasionally with the pan liquids. Add water or extra stock only if the liquids evaporate. Serve hot.

     
     
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